All my dogs and puppies live in my large house. They don't know they are working dogs, but think I exist to cater to their whims. For pictures of my operation, please visit my Breeder Operation Page.
My Dogs never get inhumanly crated or caged after their release from puppy pens to run the house. They are treated as if they are your pet to make the transition as easy on them that I can.
I own all my Sires and Dams. All puppies are born from my dogs.
All my males are DNA tested and some of the females also.
I do not stud my dogs out.
I'm careful to breed pure Shih Tzu's, but due to the public wanting small dogs, dishonest breeders are mixing them with other dogs to get the size down. Registry companies are aware and don't care as long as the money keeps coming. I can't stress it enough. NO REGISTRY COMPANY CARES ENOUGH TO ENSURE YOU GET A PUREBRED.
There is a small Shih Tzu termed as Chinese Imperial. Some are trying to make it a separate breed. To date, it is mostly a marketing term and not recognized by most registries. The dog cannot go over 9 lbs grown. Personally, I just call my small ones Shih Tzu. Imperial and Teacup are marketing terms only and usually involve more money. I sell the CKC registry for one pet price and AKC for a higher breeders price. Registries exist to....convince you the paper they provide is worth something and a Cash Cow for them, because they sure have nothing to do with ensuring the dog is pure. I guess they are proof of ownership if you register your dog.
DNA is for parentage and not breed identification. All you can tell with it is who the parents are. Avoid sites that claim they can identify what is in your mutt.
I don't trust the so called companies that claim they can tell breed with a DNA test.
How to determine the color of your Shih Tzu:
A brown nose, dog is a liver and you go by nose pigment, not hair color.
Blue or gray nose, dog is blue and you go by nose pigment, not hair color.
Black nose, dog is the color of the hair.
Brachycephalic breeds or snub nosed puppies have more sneezing and runny noses during teething and allergy season.
I do not ever give out information on my customers and because of this policy won't join any organization that wants access to you. However, if you do not register the microchip in your dog and it gets lost and I get a phone call, all bets are off. I get two to three calls a year.
Email or texting is their preferred method of communication.
Look up the area code of any phone number to find out the area you are calling. It should be close to where they claim to live. Also watch for ads placed in states far away from where person lives. They get you communicating and then offer to ship the dog.
Avoid 800 numbers or websites that have many breeds, but are one company. They are a clearing house for dogs and rake in high profits while the breeder takes all the risk and cost and work.
THINGS TO AVOID:
1. Any website that doesn't have a phone number or way to contact the breeder directly and uses a form you have to fill out. That includes 800 numbers. Avoid all middlemen. Puppy Territory.com is a prime example of a company you can be scammed on. They stole my pictures and there was no way to contact them as the entire site was a scam and I turned them into the FBI fraud unit for what good it did me.
2. Any breeder or middleman with multiple complaints on Ripoff Reports.
3. Anyone who uses only emails or texting instead of a phone.
4. A local ad when you answer thinking they are near you and they offer to ship the dog to you.
5. Breeders who breed many small breeds and mixed dogs. It's way too easy to slip a mixed into the purebreds and get away with it. Stick with breeders who only have one breed.
6. High pressure sales.
Dogs for a very low price that includes shipping. Shipping is $300-$500 alone.
Wanting Western Union, or Wal-Mart or any untraceable form of money.
Asking for additional money for shipping insurance which doesn't exist.
Saying they have the puppy, but are on a mission in Africa for their church.
Any website without a valid phone number and use either text or email only, avoid.
I don't buy from breeders who don't have a website.
Personally, when I shop for a dog, I look at what the breeder is breeding and how many different breeds. I avoid any breeder who has similar looking dogs, as a mixed might be very hard to detect. The mixed dog of Mi-Ki is a blend of seven different purebreds and throws dogs that resemble purebreds, but are not. A dishonorable breeder will sell them as purebreds. If you are in question of the purity, look at what the breeder breeds and do they offer mixed dogs.
Age of Puppy
Most states don't allow puppies to be sold before 8 weeks of age.
Never place a deposit unless you are sure if something goes wrong on the breeders end, you can get it back.
This is the most common form of theft by scammers and bad breeders. Some take what they can steal and run and others come back for more money with bogus excuses. They rely on people becoming emotional about the puppy. Their excuses are unlimited.
Sometimes a breeder just refuses to refund and deposit if something goes wrong on their end. They tell you to take another puppy or lose your deposit. Ask before placing money about their policy.
They can be as bad as scammers. They might sell a mixed dog as a purebred and over time you realize you've been had, but love the dog. If you buy a dog that isn't what is advertised, the registry companies won't help you.....they don't care about anything but money.
Seeing ads in purebred section of say Puppyfind and the breeder has mixed dogs in the wrong category. If they are cheating on the advertising site, where else are they cheating?
Qualifying for a Puppy
All breeders have their own standards for who they sell to. It is for the good of the puppy. Some use an application and others do their interviewing over the phone. I use the phone and talk to people.
Not all puppy's are a good match and the breeder might reject you for a puppy.
Selling to other Breeders
The worse hypocrites are those who won't sell to qualified breeders. They bought from breeders and they limit the blood of good dogs to responsible breeders. I urge people not to buy from them.
Breeders should run humane programs or run the risk of being rejected.
More and more breeders are meeting in public locations for their safety and that of their animals.
I get AKC inspections and have passed all of them with no issues. Always ask if a breeder is inspected. Some very tiny breeders won't be, but the larger one's will.
Can be a seller or buyer who continues to contact the other party after being told no. It is a form of harassment.
Warning signs you may have a money grubbing veterinarian is trying to redo what the breeder already did. Running unnecessary tests without your permission to pad the bill.
Veterinarians who want to give yearly vaccines. Adults shouldn't have them closer than three years and that is AAHA guidelines.
Ask the breeder if they already have the papers. If not, ask if they've been ordered and get the information in writing before placing a deposit and call the registration company and verify there are papers going to that breeder. I sometimes offer a CKC registration with the option to purchase AKC, but won't order it until a deposit is placed, but will already have CKC in my possession.
If you are looking for a dog, please feel free to use anything I put on my website as questions for breeders. The goal it to provide a positive experience when dealing with breeders and avoid those who might scam you.